How to Clean Your Sex Toys (Without Ruining Them)

A friend once texted me a photo of her favorite rabbit vibrator covered in a sticky film she couldn't wash off. It had been sitting in a drawer, touching a jelly dong she'd had for years. The silicone reacted with the jelly material and the surface degraded. A $120 toy, destroyed by bad storage. She thought she was doing everything right because she rinsed it after every use. Rinsing is not cleaning, and cleaning is only half the equation.

The core concept you need to understand: non-porousPorous and nonporousPorous materials like TPE, jelly and Cyberskin have tiny pores that can hold bacteria. Nonporous ones like silicone, glass and steel can be cleaned completely. More in the glossary vs porous materials. Non-porous toys (silicone, glass, stainless steel, ABS plastic) have smooth surfaces at the microscopic level. Bacteria can't hide. You can sanitize them completely. Porous toys (TPETPE (thermoplastic elastomer)A soft, cheap material used for most stroker sleeves. It's porous, so it can't be fully sanitized, and a sleeve lasts about a year of regular use. More in the glossary, TPR, Cyberskin, jelly rubber) have microscopic holes where bacteria embed themselves and never come out. You can clean the surface but you cannot sanitize the interior. Ever.

A 2014 Indiana University study put hard numbers to this. Twenty-four hours after cleaning, HPV was undetectable on the silicone vibrator. On the thermoplastic one? Still detectable in 2 of the 5 samples that were positive right after cleaning. That's 40%. That's not a minor difference. If you share toys or switch between body areas, material matters as much as cleaning method.

The Material Matrix

Every cleaning question starts with the same counter-question: what's your toy made of? The answer determines what you can and can't do. Here's the complete breakdown.

This table and the storage one from our storage guide also come as a one-page chart you can print, for the inside of a cabinet door.

A note on silicone quality: not all "silicone" toys are actually 100% silicone. Budget brands sometimes blend silicone with fillers. If a silicone toy smells strongly of chemicals out of the box, or if the surface feels slightly greasy, it may not be pure silicone. Brands like Tantus, Fun Factory, and We-Vibe use medical-gradeMedical-grade siliconeSilicone that passed tests for medical devices. On a toy listing it's a claim unless the maker shows the papers, and it doesn't say how the silicone was cured. More in the glossary silicone. The $15 "silicone" toy from a random Amazon seller? Maybe. Maybe not.

Jelly rubber gets its own warning. It contains phthalates in most formulations, which are chemicals linked to hormone disruption. I wouldn't put jelly rubber inside my body regardless of how well you clean it. If you have jelly toys, consider replacing them with body-safe silicone. A good silicone dildo from Tantus costs $30-45.

Cleaning Methods, Ranked

Six ways to clean a sex toy, from simplest to most aggressive.

Warm water and mild unscented soap. This is the everyday method for almost every material. The one exception is a Fleshlight sleeve, which Fleshlight says gets warm water only, no soap. Run the toy under warm water, lather with a gentle soap (unscented Dove, Dr. Bronner's unscented castile, or any mild hand soap), wash for 20-30 seconds, rinse thoroughly, and air dry on a clean towel. That's it. For single-user non-porous toys, this is all you ever need. Don't use antibacterial soap—the CDC recommends plain soap over antibacterial for most cleaning purposes, and the antibacterial agents can leave residue that irritates sensitive tissue.

Boiling. True sanitization for non-motorized silicone, glass, and steel toys, unless the maker says not to (Aneros says never boil its massagers because heat deforms them). Submerge the toy in a rolling boil for 3-5 minutes. Remove with tongs (not your fingers, obviously) and let it cool on a clean towel. This kills everything: bacteria, viruses, fungi. Use this when sharing toys between partners, switching between body areas, or when soap and water feels insufficient. You cannot boil ABS plastic, TPE, or anything with electronics inside.

Bleach solution. Mix one part unscented household bleach with nine parts cold water. Submerge non-porous toys for 10 minutes, then rinse extremely thoroughly under running water for at least 30 seconds. This is hospital-grade disinfection and the same 1:10 dilution the CDC gives for cleaning up large blood spills. Useful if you can't boil something (large toys that don't fit in a pot, ABS plastic items). Never use on porous materials. The bleach gets into those microscopic pores and you'll never rinse it all out.

Dedicated toy cleaners (Swiss Navy, Sliquid Shine, etc.) are spray-on, wipe-off convenience products. They work. They're also not better than soap and water. What you're paying $11-21 for is the convenience of not walking to a sink. Fine for a quick wipe between rounds, or for cleaning toys at a partner's place where you don't want to parade your vibrator to the bathroom. Not a replacement for actual washing.

The dishwasher. Yes, this works for non-motorized silicone, glass, and steel. Top rack, no detergent (detergent leaves residue), heated dry cycle. I don't do this. It feels weird putting my dildo next to the salad bowls. But if you live alone and want efficiency, it's a legitimate sanitization method.

UV sanitizers run $80-290 and use ultraviolet light to kill surface bacteria. The b-Vibe UV Sterilizer Pouch ($90) is the most practical option. They work, but they're expensive for a problem that soap and warm water already solves. I'd only recommend them for people with large collections who want a storage-plus-sanitization combo.

Storage (The Part Everyone Skips)

Cleaning your toys perfectly and then storing them wrong undoes the work. Three rules.

Dry completely before storing. Damp toys in closed containers grow mold. After washing, set the toy on a clean towel and let it air dry fully. This takes longer than you think for textured toys with ridges or curves. Give it an hour minimum.

Store each toy separately. Different materials can react when touching each other. Good silicone against good silicone is fine (Tantus says its toys are safe to store with others). Silicone touching jelly or TPE can be damaged. Individual cloth bags solve this. Most quality toys come with a satin or fabric pouch. Use it. If yours didn't include one, a clean cotton sock works in a pinch. Never use plastic bags or airtight containers (they trap moisture and prevent airflow).

Remove batteries from battery-operated toys during storage. Batteries corrode over time, and that corrosion can destroy the battery compartment and leak chemicals onto the toy. Rechargeable toys are fine to store with their built-in battery, just don't leave them plugged into a charger indefinitely. If you want the full breakdown on bags, cases, and drawer organization, I wrote a dedicated storage guide that covers everything.

When to Throw It Away

Toys don't last forever. Porous materials especially have a shelf life regardless of how well you maintain them.

Replace immediately if: the surface has gone sticky or tacky (material degradation, common in TPE and old silicone blends), you see visible cracks, tears, or splits (bacteria colonies form in those crevices), there's a persistent odor that doesn't go away after thorough cleaning, or the color has changed significantly (yellowing or darkening usually means chemical breakdown).

For porous materials, replace on a schedule even without visible degradation: TPE and TPR after about a year of regular use, Cyberskin every 3-6 months. The microscopic pore structure traps bacteria that you simply cannot remove. If you use condoms over them, you can stretch the timeline a bit, but these materials are temporary by design.

Silicone, glass, and stainless steel last years to decades with proper care. I have a glass dildo I've owned for years that looks identical to the day I bought it. Good materials are an investment that pays for themselves over time, because you're not replacing them every year.

Products Worth Buying

For most people, all you actually need is mild unscented soap (you already own this), a clean towel, and individual storage bags. Total cost: maybe $10-15 for a few fabric pouches. The dedicated cleaners and UV sanitizers are nice-to-haves, not necessities.

One thing I'd skip entirely: those all-in-one "toy care kits" that bundle cleaner, renewal powder, and a storage bag for $25-35. The renewal powder (usually cornstarch-based) is only needed for Cyberskin and similar materials that get tacky. If you're buying body-safe siliconeBody-safe siliconePure silicone with no fillers. It's nonporous, so it cleans completely, and "platinum-cured" on the listing is the best sign you're getting the real thing. More in the glossary or glass, you don't need powder. And the bundled cleaner is usually a tiny 2oz bottle. Buy what you need separately.

If you take one thing from this guide: the material matters more than the cleaning product. A $200 silicone toy cleaned with bar soap will outlast a $30 TPE toy cleaned with the fanciest spray on the market. Buy body-safe materials (the complete buying guide covers what to look for in every category), wash with soap and water, store them separately, and they'll last longer than most relationships.